In Villafrance del Bierzo

Villafranca Del Boerzo - often also called the "little Santiago de Compostella" was the place in past centuries where sick and injured pilgrims who could not continue the pilgrimage via the challenging mountain top of O Cebreiro, would receive their 'mercy Compostella' at the portal of the Santiago church called ' Puerta Del Perdon' - door of mercy.

I am walking to evening mass to the other side of the village as the big monastery church is no longer in function and redesign as a hostel. Noticeable is that the mass is visited exclusively by people above 65. Why are the young people not attending mass? The ultra conservative clerical class of Spain - and of many other European countries - Ned's to learn how to adress people today and get their attention;


for sure its not by practicing monotone prayer sessions and pityfull attempts to sing.

In the church of the mass I notice another curiusity: in the corner of the altar room a standing clock form past centuries calls all 15 minutes the current time- to keep the priest up to speed?!

For the evening I did not feel to have diner at the plazza  mayor where I already had lunch and where you can only find cafeteria style restaurants with medium well cooked food. So I am stopping a good looking Spanish local lady asking her for her best restaurant pick of town. " Puerta Del Pardon - opposite of the Castillo", she responds.

After asking multiple people for the correct directions I end up at a very fine restaurant and order pheasant salad as appetizer and oxtail stew as main course. I drink the Carlos I especially to Ina's health at the end of the diner; tomorrow the toughest day of the Camino is expecting me - and I am celebrating life tonight:))