From Villafranca to O Cebreiro (32 km)

I wake up 30 min later than usual - the Carlos I. Made me sleep like an angle:) So today is the day: if I trust Hape Kerkelings autobiography it is the toughest day of the Camino. I start  at 6.30 and am on the way to take on this challenge. It's 8 degree C and rather cold - sunshine cannot be exp cited for the next 2.5 hours as I am walking along the valley with big mountains to either side.

The first 12 km have been described by Hape Kerkelings as completely nerve racking and inhuman - I don't know if he even walked this way, because the first 22 km are the easiest tour I had so far. Yes, it's Sunday morning and there is literally NO TRAFFIC and yes the sun is shining already on the mountain top, but that alone cannot make such a big difference. I arrive in Los Herrarias at 9:30 am and have my breakfast break in a modern but totally empty restaurant. " Uh you want to go to O Cebreiro - that will be difficult", the waitress informs me. I cut
my breakfast break short and start with the class climb (  900 meters, 2700 feet).

In La Faba I take another short brake - that saved me from bumping into a group of cows being redirected downwards via the 'main' street. They leave behind an ocean of cow poop which makes it rather difficult to walk up the hill without stepping into their stuff.

Yes I sweat like crazy walking up the hill and yes I find this part of the trip challenging, but it's by far not as bad as described by above mentioned German comedian and I reach O Cebreiro at 11.45 - on time for 12.00 mass. I am so happy to have managed today's trip that I walk straight into the church. Only then I realize that the sweat is still dripping from my forehead and that my clothes are soaking wet - I stay anyway!

My room in the 'Hotel O Cebreiro' is basic, but I am simply happy that I got this last remaining room in the heart of the little village. The village reminds me of a comic from my childhood "Asterix & Obelix". I am in Galicia now - the last Spanish region I have to cross to my destination Santiago.

For lunch I have therefore a typical Galician meal: cabbage soup, spare ribs and Santiago cake - unbelievable that you get all this + red wine, water and cafe con laiche for only€11.