It iss still dark outside as the sunrise does not shift as much as in Northern Europe. After a quick shower I put on my clothes which I arranged the evening before. My breakfast is supposed to be a sandwich from the supermarket and 2 bananas. As the sandwich looked pretty sad after sitting all night on my night desk it wa just the bananas.
Filling up the backpack I realized that it got heavier: I bought yesterday 2.5 liters of water ( I am a sweater and need enough liquids), dried appricose and cranberries and nuts added at least 3.5 kg to my initial 10.8 kg. A sign at the Compistella office stated that the backpack should not exceed 20% of the body weight - so I am still in the green with my luggage. At 6 am sharp I am enthusiastically walking down the hotel stairs on the Camino. Breakfast is served at 7 am, but I decided not to wait that long as breakfast is rather spartanic in France and Spain.
I am expecting to see many other pilgrims as the rain stopped also, but for the first 2 km I was by myself. Immediately after leaving the village the road got steep. All books warn that this trip is the most challenging and exhausting one of the whole pilgrimage as you climb from 200m (600 feet) elevation in the village up to 1437 m( 4000 feet) and then down again to 962 meters ( 2750 feet).
I finally spot my first fellow pilgrim ahead of me and speed up. This way is about meeting new people and friends and I am reeeeady. I can not see the head of the person in front of me as the gigantic backpack covers it all. So I decide it must be a girl. And yes it was:) " Good morning, how are you?", I am greeting her. "Good morning" , she responded with the thickest Italian accent possible. " Are you sweating also as crazy as me?", I added to start a conversation. "No speaking English", was her short response. That did not go smooth. Next time I will not start the conversation about my sweating issues:))
I walk on upwards and my Italian friend disappeared fast behind me. It is just me and the French Pyrennes' mountains. Amazed I am listening to the bird concert early in the morning and enjoy the mystical view on to the way ahead of me covered in banks of fog.
Suddenly I hear somebody approaching behind me with 2 Nordic walking sticks. 'Cheeter' I am thinking as I am walking just with my single pilgrim stick. He catches up with me so fast that I can hardly believe it. 'Good morning, Bruce from San Diego"."Good morning Andreas from Germany. What a coincidence, I know San Diego very well as I used to work there for my company for 6 years and was an exchange student in my early 20ies". "Great city", he agrees and walks on like a Gazelle up the mountain. Dam, I am already soaking sweaty - in fact it looks like I have been peeing my pants ( which I have not!!!!!) and he runs up that mountain like a steam train. 'Find your own pace, stop measuring yourself with others', the wise man in my left ear whispers. Ok ok. Will do.
Out of nowhere a hostel appears behind a curve. I enter and order a coffee and orange juice. There is also Bruce the Gazelle ordering a tortilla recommending me " you better have some food with you form here on to our day destination there is absolutely nothing". I join into the tortilla order and the bartender hands a something ice cold wrapped in a paper. I open it and realize the slice of tortilla is frozen. " Sorry I can't lick my lunch. Could you heat it up for me?" With no emotions the bartender takes it back to th kitchen and heats it up.
" WE must be almost on top, Bruce", I ask the Gazelle from San Diego. " Wishfull thinking we are at 820 meters (2400 feet). 600 meters (1900 feet) to go to the top. This is half way". I am shocked and decide to continue with no further delay. ITs 8 am and I am nowhere near to the top. A group of Irish and Newzealand pilgrims started from the hostel ahead of me. I catch up with them quickly and decide to pass them as I do not well in group hiking with chitchats about funny topics.
The clouds seem to touch my head already - and it starts raining. I thought it will bother me, but I am so wet already that it realy does not make a difference. ' I want to reach that top' I am talking to myself and speed up sweating
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