...the rain starts to get heavier and soon I am in the clouds/fog and can barley see my own feet. At km 14 I reach a hut which I great fully enter. The spartanic interior ( an old orange case sitting upside down in the corner of the 8 square meter inside) is not that welcoming, but I decide it's time for appricose, cranberries, nuts and water.  5 minutes later a group of 7 French man enter the hut. One of them spins around like a ballerina with his backpack and dirty pants hanging of his behind which he gracefully wipes through my face a couple of time. Time to move on I decide after my 7 minute break.

The way gets steeper and steeper. Why am I doing this? My legs start getting weaker - in fact it looks like I am going sick zack up the mountain. Then I finally reach the top Witze fountain of 'Roland'. Unfortunately it is monopolized by 2 German smokers. ' Enjoying the worldwide day of non smoking', I am thinking but not saying as I donT want to spread bad athmosphere. I decide to move on. What is with smokers that they immediately feel that smoking outside bothers nobody? And why do they think their cigarette filters are organic garbage and can be tossed wherever they want? Oh well, donT get me started about my favorite topic.

No time to spend with those thoughts as the decline starts 30 minutes later. It is realy steep. I remember my friend Barabara from high school instructing me last week ' When you climbing down take the right way', but I decided for the adventure - the left way. The forest way is filled with rubble, old leaves and huge little lakes of rainfall which slowly turn into a river going downhill. I should have listened to Barabara, but too late. What if I fall here? There is again absolutely nobody. I am sliding at least 6 times, but fortunately each time I am able to catch balance again. Falling on this rubble will be bad news for any butt. Even the 2 black and heavy set US ladies I saw yesterday in the starting village will feel this. But how will they get up the mountain ? Impossible!

After 4 km down the hill I look like a mud ringer. Dirt up to my waiste line. But I finally reach the monastery of Roncesvalles after a total trip of 6 hours. My fitband tells me that I walked 28 km and burned 4700 calories, so I decide to have a big lunch in the hostel bar. 3 cafe con laiche, 3 beers ( one with no alcohol), one multi vitamin and one orange juicy help me to replace the lost liquid on the extremely difficult trip.

After 2 hours in the bar the reception finally opens at 2 pm and I check in - what a nice surprise: I get a single room with an extra big bed - yeah.

From Saint Jean Pied du Port to Roncesvalles/Orreaga (28 km)

After all the events of the previous day I went to bed early.I also decided to switch off the alarm which I fixed for 5.20 am. I woke up at 5.20 anyway:)

It iss still dark outside as the sunrise does not shift as much as in Northern Europe. After a quick shower I put on my clothes which I arranged the evening before. My breakfast is supposed to be a sandwich from the supermarket and 2 bananas. As the sandwich looked pretty sad after sitting all night on my night desk it wa just the bananas.

Filling up the backpack I realized that it got heavier: I bought yesterday 2.5 liters of water ( I am a sweater and need enough liquids), dried appricose and cranberries and nuts added at least 3.5 kg to my initial 10.8 kg. A sign at the Compistella office stated that the backpack should not exceed 20% of the body weight - so I am still in the green with my luggage. At 6 am sharp I am enthusiastically walking down the hotel stairs on the Camino. Breakfast is served at 7 am, but I decided not to wait that long as breakfast is rather spartanic in France and Spain.

I am expecting to see many other pilgrims as the rain stopped also, but for the first 2 km I was by myself. Immediately after leaving the village the road got steep. All books warn that this trip is the most challenging and exhausting one of the whole pilgrimage as you climb from 200m (600 feet) elevation in the village up to 1437 m( 4000 feet) and then down again to 962 meters ( 2750 feet).

I finally spot my first fellow pilgrim ahead of me and speed up. This way is about meeting new people and friends and I am reeeeady. I can not see the head of the person in front of me as the gigantic backpack covers it all. So I decide it must be a girl. And yes it was:) " Good morning, how are you?", I am greeting her. "Good morning" , she responded with the thickest Italian accent possible. " Are you sweating also as crazy as me?", I added to start a conversation. "No speaking  English", was her short response. That did not go smooth. Next time I will not start the conversation  about my sweating issues:))

I walk on upwards and my Italian friend disappeared fast behind me. It is just me and the French Pyrennes' mountains. Amazed I am listening to the bird concert early in the morning and enjoy the mystical view on to the way ahead of me covered in banks of fog.

Suddenly I hear somebody approaching behind me with 2 Nordic walking sticks. 'Cheeter' I am thinking as I am walking just with my single pilgrim stick. He catches up with me so fast that I can hardly believe it. 'Good morning, Bruce from San Diego"."Good morning Andreas from Germany. What a coincidence, I know San Diego very well as I used to work there for my company for 6 years and was an exchange student in my early 20ies". "Great city", he agrees and walks on like a Gazelle up the mountain. Dam, I am already soaking sweaty - in fact it looks like I have been peeing my pants ( which I have not!!!!!) and he runs up that mountain like a steam train. 'Find your own pace, stop measuring yourself with others', the wise man in my left ear whispers. Ok ok. Will do.

Out of nowhere a hostel appears behind a curve. I enter and order a coffee and orange juice. There is also Bruce the Gazelle ordering a tortilla recommending me " you better have some food with you form here on to our day destination there is absolutely nothing". I join into the tortilla order and the bartender hands a something ice cold wrapped in a paper. I open it and realize the slice of tortilla is frozen. " Sorry I can't lick my lunch. Could you heat it up for me?" With no emotions the bartender takes it back to th kitchen and heats it up.

" WE must be almost on top, Bruce", I ask the Gazelle from San Diego. " Wishfull thinking we are at 820 meters (2400 feet). 600 meters (1900 feet) to go to the top. This is half way". I am  shocked and decide to continue with no further delay. ITs 8 am and I am nowhere near to the top. A group of Irish and Newzealand pilgrims started from the hostel ahead of me. I catch up with them quickly and decide to pass them as I do not well in group hiking with chitchats about funny topics. 

The clouds seem to touch my head already - and it starts raining. I thought it will bother me, but I am so wet already that it realy does not make a difference. ' I want to reach that top' I am talking to myself and speed up sweating

Arrival in Saint Jean Pied du Port

The airline wanted to leave me in Madrid, but I insisted to get rebooked to a flight to San Sebastian - 80 km from Biaritz. Thank God I used the waiting time at Madrid airport to schedule a transfer to Saint Jean Pied du Port, because the whole airport was deserted except my driver waiting for me.

Once in the taxi it started raining cats and dogs. When we tried to get on the motorway we got stuck and nothing moved." The police is checking all trucks entering the motorway as we are approaching France", said my Spanish driver. After we were stuck behind a truck for 15 minutes with no movement he turned around taking an alternative route. Something seems to be constantly in the way, but I am too enthusiastic to let anything bother me:))
He chauffeured me with a Mercedes E class - not exactly a humble arrival in Saint Jean Pied du Port, but my only chance to get where I wanted to be. He thought my Spanish was good enough to talk with me in 'speedy Gonzales' pace in Spanish. Upon arrival he treated me like all people do with a heart full 'Bon Camino' and a final advice: "don't forget to buy and eat dry fruits every day - it will safe you from muscle pain".

The mideavall village greeted us even with some dry wheather. My 2 star hotel for the ridiculous price of €92 was right behind the old city walls.  Thank God though that I had a reservation, because at my arrival - 6 pm - all hostels had already the 'sorry, we are completely booked' sign in the window.

In my room I unpacked my backpack and had to realize that I missed some essential things: rain cover for the bag pack ( heavy rain in the forecast for tomorrow), flashlight and hat. A convenience store next to the hotel had all the essentials and even a walking stick, which is highly recommended to protect oneself from attacking dogs.

It's time I go to bed now - it was a long day. I hope I can sleep even with the loud noises of excitement from a lady across the courtyard who seems to enjoy a good hour of sex ( close the window please!!!!:))

Arrival in Madrid:

God, you are sending me my first test toooooo early. Due to heavy rain and thunderstorms all flights from Dusseldorf were delayed. Our captain made up a lot of time until Madrid - when they changed direction of the runway on him and sent him around for another 20 minutes.

The connection gate claimed that I was 2 minutes late even though I was 1 Minute before closing:((( There is no more flight to Biariz today - so I am catching a flight to beautifull San Sebastian and take a taxi over to Saint Jean Pied du Port.  I am sure I will make it:))

Departure day

My alarm is ringing: it's 5.15 am and time to jump under the shower before Frank pics me up at 5.45. I only slept 4 hours or so - am still too impressed and touched by the friendship and love of my guests dung the past 3 days in Antalya Turkey.  So now the birthday celebrations are over. No time for sentimentality now though because I am waiting for my flight to Biaritz ( via Madrid)  here at the Dussdorf airport to start my pilgrimage: the Saint James Pilgrimiges or Camino Francia.

Why am I doing this? Why not spend 5 weeks in a wellness hotel with great food and treatments? I guess at this stage of my life I want to do 'the big check-up': let's find answers to some questions:

Why am I on this earth and what can I do to make this earth a better place in the coming 50 years?
What is my purpose?
Why am I Catholic and how strong is my believe?
Where is God?
Why do so many nations drift extreme right wing politically lately?

I am not sure if I find answers to any or all of my questions, but I will start walking and maybe it will come to me or not.

Frank picked me up at 5.45 am to drive me to the airport. I thought he would fly, too, but he was there just to drive me the 50 km from Gladbeck to Düssldorf - crazy guy.
" let's try and meet more regularly", says the father of 2 beautiful girls to me in the car. Yes, I want to do it and have time now. The past 25 years at ista I was on the road most of the time circling the world so many times and not taking care of my friends as much as I should have.

First conclusion: I will take time for my family, friends and myself - much more than in the past.

Ups, boarding call - talk to you later!!!!